1. Cyclops Lens & Date Magnification
Genuine: The Cyclops lens (the small magnifying window over the date) on a real Rolex should magnify the date by 2.5 times. The date will appear large and clear.
Fake: Many counterfeits fail to replicate this properly, often offering only 1.5x magnification or less, making the date look small and hard to read.
2. Movement
Genuine: Rolex Submariners use high-quality automatic movements, such as the Calibre 3135 or newer Calibre 3230/3235. The second hand will move smoothly across the dial.
Fake: Many fakes use quartz movements, resulting in a ticking second hand instead of a smooth sweep. Even replicas trying to mimic the sweep may have a less smooth, stuttering motion.
Engraving Quality
Genuine: The inner bezel, or rehaut, features the word “ROLEX” engraved around it with precision. It’s sharp, clear, and perfectly aligned.
Fake: On fake models, this engraving can often be blurry or uneven, with poor-quality craftsmanship that is noticeable upon close inspection.
4. Crown Logo on Crystal
Genuine: Since 2002, Rolex Submariners feature a tiny crown etched on the crystal at the 6 o’clock position. It’s almost invisible to the naked eye and is often only visible under magnification.
Fake: Counterfeit watches may have no crown etched on the crystal, or if they do, it might be too obvious or poorly executed.
5. Weight and Material
Genuine: Rolex uses high-quality materials, such as 904L Oystersteel, which gives the watch a heavy, substantial feel on the wrist.
Fake: Fakes tend to use cheaper materials and are noticeably lighter. The weight difference is a major indicator, as authentic Rolex watches feel dense and solid.
6. Bezel
Genuine: The bezel of a genuine Submariner rotates smoothly in one direction and has precise, solid clicks. The ceramic bezel also has a high-quality finish, with the numbers filled with platinum or gold.
Fake: The bezel on a fake may feel loose, too stiff, or have poor-quality engraving, with numbers that look painted rather than filled with precious metal.
7. Bracelet and Clasp
Genuine: The Submariner’s bracelet, particularly the Oysterlock clasp, feels secure, with a crisp, satisfying snap when closed. The bracelet links are solid and well-finished.
Fake: Fake watches often have rattling bracelets with poorly finished links. The clasp may feel loose, difficult to close, or cheap.
8. Lume (Luminescence)
Genuine: Modern Rolex Submariners use Chromalight, a long-lasting blue luminescence that glows brightly in low light and maintains its glow for several hours.
Fake: Counterfeits often use poor-quality lume that either doesn’t glow as brightly or fades much faster
9. Serial and Model Numbers
Genuine: Rolex engraves the serial and model numbers between the lugs at the 6 and 12 o’clock positions (older models) or around the inner bezel (rehaut) in more recent models. The engraving is deep and crisp.
Fake: Fake watches may have poorly engraved or even incorrect serial numbers. Some may even reuse the same serial numbers across multiple fake models.
10. Price
Genuine: A new Rolex Submariner in the UK is expensive, starting at around £7,000 and rising depending on the model. Even second-hand prices tend to remain high due to demand.
Fake: If you find a deal that seems too good to be true, especially on marketplaces like eBay or other online stores, it’s a red flag. A massive discount is almost always a sign of a fake.
11. Documentation and Packaging
Genuine: A real Rolex comes with high-quality packaging, a warranty card, and documentation that matches the serial number of the watch.
Fake: The box and paperwork accompanying a fake Rolex are often low-quality, with misspelled words or incorrect logos. Always ensure the warranty card matches the serial number of the watch.
Professional Authentication
If you’re still uncertain about the authenticity, take the watch to an authorised Rolex dealer or an experienced jeweller who can open the case back and verify the movement. This is the most reliable way to ensure you’re buying a genuine Rolex.
In the UK, there are trusted dealers and watch experts who can assist with authentication. Be wary of buying from unknown sellers, especially online. Which is we at Baldwin Jewellery work alongside the most experience and best in the business when it comes to pre-owned watches; ensuring our customers receive a legitimate product genuine piece which can be cherished for years to come. To buy a second hand Rolex checkout our dedicated page here.