HOW ANCIENT CIVILISATIONS USED GOLD FOR JEWELLERY
Gold has captivated humanity for millennia, cherished not only for its radiant beauty but also for its rarity, spiritual significance, and connection to the divine. Ancient civilisations across the globe used gold to craft exquisite jewellery, which held deep cultural, religious, and esoteric importance. Let’s take a journey through time to explore how early societies harnessed gold to create stunning adornments and who among them had the privilege of wearing such treasures.
Egypt: Gold of the Gods and the Afterlife
The ancient Egyptians were among the first civilisations to master the art of goldsmithing. As early as 3000 BCE, gold was mined from the deserts of Nubia and worked into elaborate jewellery pieces . Gold was considered divine, associated with the sun god Ra and the afterlife. Pharaohs, high priests, and members of the royal court wore intricate gold amulets, broad collars (wesekhs), and funerary masks, the most famous being the golden death mask of Tutankhamun . These adornments were believed to channel divine energy and provide protection in both the physical and spiritual realms. Gold jewellery was also placed in tombs to accompany the deceased on their journey to the afterlife, symbolising eternal wealth and power.
Pictured: This ring, discovered at Amarna, features hieroglyphs likely forming an ideogram. It depicts Akhenaten and Nefertiti as the deities Shu and Tefnut, symbolizing air and moisture. The earth glyph below and the sun disk with sacred cobras above represent their roles as cosmic parents of the earth and sky.
Mesopotamia: Status, Protection, and Sacred Rituals
The Sumerians and Babylonians of Mesopotamia, around 2500 BCE, crafted gold jewellery to signify status, divine protection, and participation in sacred rituals . Excavations in the Royal Cemetery of Ur revealed spectacular gold headpieces, earrings, and necklaces worn by elite women, high priests, and rulers. Mesopotamian jewellers pioneered techniques such as granulation and filigree, creating delicate and intricate patterns that highlighted their advanced metalworking skills. Gold jewellery was often imbued with esoteric significance, believed to ward off malevolent spirits and serve as a conduit for divine favour.
Pictured: These gold pendants and beads showcase exceptional craftsmanship from the ancient Near East, each representing a deity or its symbol. The horned female figures likely depict Lama, the protective goddess, while the sun disk represents Shamash, the sun god. The forked lightning signifies Adad, the storm god, and the granulated rosettes may symbolize Ishtar, the goddess of love and war. Similar symbolic necklaces appear on Assyrian royal reliefs, serving as both adornments and talismans.
Greece: Elegance, Mythology, and Mysticism
Greek artisans between 1600 and 300 BCE produced gold jewellery that reflected their love for mythology, nature, and the mystical connection between gods and mortals . Inspired by themes of deities, heroes, and sacred flora, Greek jewellers created intricate gold wreaths, bracelets, and rings adorned with motifs such as olive leaves, serpents, and celestial symbols. Goldsmithing flourished during the Hellenistic period, with jewellery being worn by both men and women of aristocratic lineage, priestesses, and those initiated into mystery cults. One of the most remarkable techniques developed by Greek artisans was repoussé, which allowed them to create relief designs on thin gold sheets. Certain pieces were believed to hold protective charms or divine blessings from deities like Aphrodite and Athena.
Pictured: These striking goldserpentine armbands depict a male and female triton, each delicately cradling a small winged Eros. Given their substantial weight—each exceeding 6.5 ounces—the armbands were designed with hoops positioned behind the tritons' heads, allowing them to be securely fastened to the sleeves of a garment to prevent slipping.
Rome: Luxury, Power, and the Magic of Gold
The Romans, influenced by Greek and Etruscan traditions, took gold jewellery to new heights between 500 BCE and 400 CE . They favoured bold designs with precious gemstones such as emeralds, sapphires, and pearls. Gold rings, signet rings, and necklaces became essential fashion statements, often signifying social rank, military achievement, and mystical protection. High-ranking senators, emperors, priestesses of mystery religions, and wealthy citizens adorned themselves with gold as a testament to their divine favour and status. The Roman Empire’s extensive trade networks enabled the use of gold sourced from as far as Spain and the Middle East. The innovation of engraved gemstones (intaglios) allowed Romans to use their jewellery as personal seals, believed to hold esoteric power in legal and spiritual matters.
Pictured: Is a gold ring with a portrait bust of a woman.
inscribed Sophroni.
China: The Symbolism and Spirituality of Gold
In ancient China, gold jewellery was highly valued but often secondary to jade, which was believed to possess superior protective qualities . However, by 2000 BCE, gold was being used to craft hairpins, earrings, and belt buckles, often featuring auspicious symbols such as dragons and phoenixes. The Han Dynasty (206 BCE – 220 CE) saw an increase in gold jewellery production, with emperors, high-ranking officials, and members of spiritual sects using gold as a representation of imperial authority, divine favour, and metaphysical balance. The placement of gold amulets and charms was believed to align an individual with cosmic energies and ancestral blessings.
The use of gold in jewellery has remained a timeless tradition, transcending civilisations and centuries. From the divine symbolism of ancient Egypt to the refined artistry of Greece and Rome, gold has been a marker of status, belief, and mystical power. The craftsmanship of these early civilisations laid the foundation for modern goldsmithing techniques, ensuring that gold jewellery remains a treasured adornment to this day.
Furthermore, ancient gold jewellery is now highly sought after by collectors and investors, often fetching thousands more than the spot price of gold due to its historical significance, craftsmanship, and rarity. The provenance, condition, and unique design of these pieces contribute to their high value in the market, making them not just exquisite adornments but also significant investments.
This article was written to share knowledge and help inform people about the wonderful and exquisite history of gold. Because at Baldwin Jewellery, we continue this time-honoured tradition of goldsmithing, crafting jewellery that echoes the artistry of the past goldsmiths of history. Our expertise in working with gold allows us to create timeless pieces that blend historical craftsmanship of our forefathers with contemporary / modern elegance.
References
- Ogden, Jack. Jewellery of the Ancient World. Trefoil Books, 1982.
- Despini, Aikaterini. Greek Art: Ancient Gold Jewellery. Society of Jewellery Historians, 1995.
- Andrews, Carol. Ancient Egyptian Jewellery. British Museum Press, 1990.
- Metropolitan Museum of Art. Ancient Gold Jewelry at the Dallas Museum of Art, 1996.
- Taylor, Timothy. The Buried Soul: How Humans Invented Death. Fourth Estate, 2002.